Christmas in Provence is a spectacular affair. Lights and decorations go up as early as the end of November for the saision des fêtes. In December, vendors at the outdoor markets bring out their Christmas specials, while musicians and artists start practicing for the Midnight Mass theater.
The real festivities get started on December 4, St. Barbe’s Day, when grains of wheat and lentils are carefully placed in a saucer near the fireplace, to be watered and tended every day until...
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