An intriguing article in today's New York Times about a Cheryl Lins who is distilling absinthe in the Catskills:

Since 2007, when the Treasury Department relaxed its position on the sale of absinthe, 13 American distilleries have begun producing the spirit legally, according to the Wormwood Society, a consumer education and advocacy group. Ms. Lins, 56, is the first in New York State, making two versions at Delaware Phoenix, her micro-distillery here. (Another absinthe, distilled in Gardiner, N.Y., and called Edward III, will go on sale next week.)Customers like Astor Wines & Spirits and the bar Louis 649 seem to find her lack of self-promotion sometimes amusing and mostly refreshing. Justin Chearno, manager of the wine store Uva in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, said: When she walked into the store, I saw she had that thing natural winemakers have an authentic, obsessive thing. When she said she was selling absinthe, not wine, I was, like, Youre kidding! Then I tasted. Her flavors and tastes were just as alive.

Ms Lins not only grows some of the herbs, she also designs the bottle labels, and delivers her product to market. She travels twice a month from her base in Walton, New York (familiar to some dotCommers) to stores in THE City. She explains:

A century ago this town was prosperous with its piano, light bulb and cigar factories, she said. We had a strong connection with New York City life. Part of my idea was to recreate that link. Selfishly, though, I wouldnt be doing this if I wasnt obsessed with absinthe in the first place.

I've never tried absinthe, don't know why it had been banned in the U.S., but Ms Lins seems to be on to something. Perhaps it sips well with Augustine's Christmas sermons: Salute, e buon Natale!