Driving from Santiago de Cuba, near the eastern end of the island, all the way west to Havana, one passes through a score of towns and villages, none of which seems to have had a coat of fresh paint in the past half century. The ubiquitous shabbiness of today’s Cuba is even more noticeable in Havana. Once one of the most beautiful cities in the world, today Havana is divided between the restored glories of Habana Vieja (plus the resort areas visited by...
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