San Clemente and Tradition
Eamon Duffy, Professor of the History of Christianity in the University of Cambridge, is the author of the splendid study, Saints and Sinners: A History of the Popes, now newly updated.
As Commonweal readers know, he also has a fine collection of essays, entitled Faith of Our Fathers: Reflections on Catholic Tradition. The book elicited a lively exchange in Commonweal (March 11, 2005) between the author and four commentators.
One of my favorite passages in the book reads:
I am fond of the analogy between tradition and one building in particular, the church of San Clemente in Rome, near the Colosseum.
[T]he glory of the apse is its glittering twelfth-century mosaic, a crucifixion in which Christ is surrounded on the cross by doves, while the cross itself rises from a luxuriant blue and green tree of life. From it flow streams of water, from which thirsty deer drink. In its shelter animals and birds feed and play, the weapons of war lie discarded, and human life goes on — a woman throws corn to her chickens, a shepherd tends his seep.
The San Clemente mosaic is a theology in itself. But it is only the start of what the building has to offer.
Duffy then goes on to describe how, in the nineteenth century, excavations were begun which uncovered under the present basilica, the original (and larger) basilica, dating from perhaps the fourth century. Still not content, the prior of the Irish Dominicans, who have cared for the church since the seventeenth century, insisted, to the consternation of the brethren, that the digging continue. What they discovered under the original basilica was a first-century Roman street, with what may be the original house of St. Clement, alongside a temple to Mithras.
Reflecting upon the complex reality, Duffy muses:
For me, San Clemente is a near-perfect expression of Catholic tradition, layer upon layer of shared prayer, thought, sufferings — and sin. Like the mosaic, the church yields its meaning only to slow meditation and close attention to the traces of the past which it contains, some of it half-buried and forgotten … [Traditon] is able to surprise and shock us, as well as confirm in us what we already knew; it is able to stop us in our tracks and think again, and able always to make us catch our breath with its sheer majesty and beauty.
I have the immense good fortune of being able, when visiting Rome, to stay near San Clemente. I always make a visit to the church the first thing I do upon arrival, in order to pray before the cross of Christ as tree of life. I am awed to think that perhaps Francis of Assisi or Thomas Aquinas prayed here. And I always light a candle for relatives and friends, colleagues and students. Since I will leave for Rome in a few days, be assured that you also will be remembered in the flickering flame.
on June 16th, 2006 at 10:15 am
I remember when this essay first appeared in The Tablet some 10 or 11 years ago. I photocopied and distributed it to our RCIA class as a beautiful explanation of tradition.
on June 16th, 2006 at 12:20 pm
Two years ago I attended a 2-week course at the Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas in Rome. I stayed at an Irish Dominican Convent (& B&B) … Villa Rosa … in Aventino. My daily walk to and from the Lay Centre took me directly past San Clemente. The sister in charge of VR let me know right away that I would be missing everything if I didn’t visit SC.
I did (many times) and she was absolutely right. Many visitors to Rome mourn if they can’t get a tour through the scavi under St. Peter’s. I think that a visit to SC is equally as fascinating at the scavi tour and not even “second best.” It is on a par.
And, if you do visit Rome and can attend any of the Lay Centre presentations, take full advantage of a truly marvelous experience. The ordained are welcomed, but only as “lay wannabes.” (I jest, before clerical collars start to burn)
on June 16th, 2006 at 12:39 pm
As a Rome-lover I heartily add my “aye aye” to this. I love S. Clemente! It’s a must on any visit to the Eternal City.
I recall the first visit (it was before all the new lights and museum-style placards appeared), going down to the Mithraeum, walking on the same stones that our ancestors in faith (and their pagan neighbors!) walked on. It still gives me the shivers. This is what I love about Rome — that intimate sense of connection with the early Christians.
[And this is my first commeont on here! Love the blog!]
on June 16th, 2006 at 4:50 pm
San Clemente is indeed a wonderful place. I stopped there one afternoon on my two week visit some ten years ago.
I sat there for some time doing meditative type of prayer.
A priest came up and told me to leave.
There was an American Cardinal with a group of American faithful present. The Cardinal was going to celebrate Mass for the group.
The rest of us were asked to leave.
I did as I was told.
But, my memories of San Clemente remain very positive. Hopefully, some day, I’ll be able to visit again. And, finish that prayer I started.
on June 17th, 2006 at 11:02 am
You’re all making me jealous. I have never been to Rome, but I’m saving my skymiles- pray Delta doesn’t go belly-up!!
on June 17th, 2006 at 5:27 pm
Thanks to all who share my love affair with San Clemente.
To Jimmy Mac:
the Lay Centre is too little known –
its programs are wonderful,
and Donna Orsuto, its Direector,
is one of the treasures of the Eternal City.
Arrivederci a tutti.
on June 18th, 2006 at 1:51 am
For those interested in finding out more about the Lay Centre in Rome, go to: http://www.laycentre.org/
And, if you want a good economical place to stay while visiting Rome, email Villa Rosa, attn: Sr. Christina McGarry, OP, at villarosa2000@libero.it. You can also call them at 011 39 06 571 7091 or fax them at 011 39 06 574 5275.
No, I am not a paid or unpaid shill for either place.